what does it mean to bulletproof a 6.0 powerstroke
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What Does It Mean to Bulletproof A Diesel fuel Engine?
The term "bulletproof" in the diesel industry usually ways just ane thing, but it comes with three caveats. The phrase bulletproofing a diesel engine means that information technology can withstand extreme amounts of corruption without making any major repairs. The caveat is that this only applies to certain diesel and their special features within the fuel system. It has zip to do with the actual strength of the cake itself, but rather how well it is protected from exterior impairment.
The second caveat is that there are many people out there who would consider themselves "diesel experts" or have done lots of enquiry on diesel or both, and then not anybody will define bulletproofing in exactly the same way.
The general agrees that bulletproofing a diesel engine means that the fuel arrangement is protected from outside contaminants, simply beyond that, it tin can have multiple meanings. It will usually include things such equally using loftier-quality components, specific brands, and higher-than-stock viscosity lubricants to further protect the fuel arrangement.
Finally, there are three major areas that the "impenetrable" term applies to common cold atmospheric condition starting (cold crank), farthermost air intake temperatures similar those found in offroad racing or desert conditions where the engines run extremely rich mixtures or with poor turbocharger oil return; and preventative maintenance items similar replacing worn pushrods early enough to avoid catastrophic harm due to their increased habiliment rate.
The offset bulletproofing methods were used in conjunction with the advancements fabricated to turbochargers, which were showtime introduced back in the early 1970s.
The fuel systems were not congenital strong plenty to handle these new turbocharged engines. To solve this problem, special high-pressure (over 4250 psi) pumps and hoses had to exist installed. These are even so being used today, but there have been advances in parts that are just as effective at preventing broken engine components without having any notable drawbacks.
Even at present the term "bulletproofing" is nonetheless synonymous with diesel performance though information technology is now more than of a marketing ploy than anything else. While there are many people whose definition of bulletproofing means unlike things, they would agree on two things. It means to use high-performance parts and lubricants, and information technology was originally meant to help protect the fuel organisation from damage due to extreme engine conditions.
Because of the many people who have a unlike accept on what "bulletproofing" a diesel engine entails, this may mean using certain brands or types of components as opposed to others. As a event, there are some out in that location who would consider themselves experts but still might not concur on exactly what "bulletproofing" ways in their particular case because they don't follow those other aspects that others do.
In any instance, though, the version of bulletproofing that everyone agrees with is near protecting the fuel system from exterior contaminants, which is mostly achieved through using high-quality components and advanced lubricants such as those specifically marketed for diesel.
The original intent of the term bulletproofing had to do with protecting the fuel organisation from damage due to extreme engine atmospheric condition by using high-pressure pumps and hoses, but this has evolved over time. While some nevertheless use information technology in reference to their specific instance and how they become about performing maintenance on the diesel engines, the general consensus is that it refers to using high-operation parts and lubricants which will assistance prevent major problems from occurring later down the road when y'all least expect it.
The proven way to bullet proof
So I've been getting lots of emails request about the best fashion to bulletproof a Powerstroke. Many people are concerned nearly the 07-09 block great effect.
Here is what you need to do, in order, to brand your truck bulletproof.
Note: The first thing you should practise is install new head bolts with ARP's L19 caput studs subsequently advisedly torquing each bolt using molly coated spanners for this procedure. As well, change the oil pan gasket and re-torque that also. This should forbid any potential low oil pressure issues which can cause begetting failure without proper lubrication.
1) Stage 2+ Performance Tune – This tune takes advantage of your larger injectors, larger FICM voltage range, and the improved torque curve of the 6.0 Powerstroke bulletproof kit to bring your truck up to approx. 325 hp/440 ft lbs of torque depending on your mods. This is enough hp to get you lot out of most potential trouble during normal driving especially with a bulletproofed engine, simply if you're actually concerned about maxing out your power at whatsoever rpm I would recommend getting a dyno tune or adding an exhaust brake for more command in low rpm situations.
2) BPD vgt – My favorite mod is the BPD vgt delete kit because information technology saves 15 lbs overall when compared to AFE's weight reduction intake manifold plus gives you better throttle response when accelerating off the line due to the fact that you can now control your air/fuel curve without opening and endmost the vgt doors.
three) EGR Delete – This modern is a must, but I highly recommend installing coolant filtration too (meet tip #four). If y'all don't want to pay for a coolant filter kit then merely observe yourself an oil catch tin can and dump it every other day, because removing this "unnecessary" part of your engine prevents lots of carbon build-up which may eventually lead to low oil pressure problems.
four) Coolant Filter with Bypass – The stock Powerstroke cooling system is actually very similar to older Cummins engines except the CTS-V'south accept aluminum heads instead of cast iron. This means that when you remove the EGR cooler and its recirculation valve, y'all're actually right below your engine cake which makes it piece of cake to add a coolant filter with bypass to keep whatever harmful particles out of your oil libation and ameliorate circulate the fluid throughout your unabridged cooling organisation.
5) Aftermarket Oil Cooler – If y'all're going to stick with OEM parts I recommend upgrading from the stock oil cooler to a larger one such as a valley fill or arp sandwich adapter for more efficient estrus transfer away from your engine into the ambient air. Over fourth dimension this will help preclude hot spots in certain areas of your truck, especially when switching from hard acceleration back downwards to cruising speed after passing someone on the highway.
vi) Aftermarket Programmable FICM – This is a must-have for high-powered tunes, to stay on the safe side I recommend getting the ARP head studs installed with this mod too. The next best thing would be an upgraded fuel pump which you tin find hither.
vii) Bulletproofed injectors – Now that you've maxed out your stock injectors it's fourth dimension to get some larger ones. For about $1000 you lot could upgrade all 8 of your stock injectors to a set of four CMD billet aluminum blackness edition ones that menses up to 540cc/min each or you could become big and get yourself some brand new custom fabricated HPOP nozzles with your selection of flow rates and spray angles.
If you're an advanced 6.0 owner and so I'm sure you already know that the HPOP nozzles are what controls everything on your truck, so if you lot want to maintain the highest amount of control over your injectors while adding more fuel during high hp/tq situations it's time for some aftermarket nozzles!
8) Aftermarket oil restrictor kit – The next mod in line would be to go rid of annihilation that restricts the period of oil throughout your engine specially when pushing her past 3500rpm. GM did a very poor task with their stock oil restrictor channels located here, but thankfully BulletProofDiesel got the states covered with an awesome oil restrictor kit that works with a ii.5″ hose and all the fittings you'll need to plumb everything together.
9) Bulletproofed turbo – Now for this next modernistic it'southward actually recommended that y'all have your engine completely taken apart downward to the bare block and then information technology's the perfect fourth dimension to install some dampening sleeves, upgrade your injectors/pump, supplant all your gaskets, and if you lot really desire the most out of your half dozen.0 I'd also advise going ahead and having a custom oil pan made but that'south only going to be necessary if you're maxing out at over 650hp+.
If I was just starting my build I would first invest in a quality tuner who tin can help go the most out of your vi.0, simply if yous're feeling confident in yourself and then feel free to requite Bulletproof Diesel fuel a shot at tuning your truck for you! After that have them put together the "perfect" setup by building your custom turbo, manifolds/downpipes, and an oil drain system with either a barracks or modified stock pan. Trust me when I tell yous that aftermarket manifolds are probably one of the worst investments to ever grace our trucks and so save yourself some time and money here.
ten) Custom long block – Well congratulations on making it this far if you oasis't already sold everything off your Powerstroke by now. This is where things get crazy expensive just should also yield some pretty awesome results. At present if you want to get the most out of your 6.0 I recommend having a local machine store make you a custom block with an enlarged deportation such every bit 298 or fifty-fifty 331 cubes (v.three).
Of course, this volition take some very careful planning and require re-wearisome/honing, sleeving, and ARP head studs just it shouldn't be too hard to pull off for around $7000 or more depending on who does the work for you and how much they charge.
11) Custom turbo setup – This is where things start getting really expensive, then trust me when I say that there is no meliorate time than now to max out your credit card! If you oasis't already maxed out your stock turbo with a "custom" manifold/downpipe philharmonic then it's time to upgrade that likewise as all of the other supporting mods you've already installed.
The all-time option for those of us looking to really win races would be to purchase a turbo from Garrett, Holset, or Precision and take them custom-build you an exhaust housing with a .75 A/R ratio. On top of that if you lot're going crazy I'd as well recommend having a custom underpin made so y'all can go on your truck looking 100% mill which should likewise help improve aerodynamics.
12) Custom – Well congrats on making information technology this far! If none of your electric current mods have been upgraded then this is the perfect time to exercise so. The next items y'all'll want to invest in are a quality tuner and AEM FIC piggyback (control unit of measurement). If you're like most of us and still looking for that extra few ponies then it's likewise time to invest in either an aftermarket downpipe or custom exhaust system with either a DPF delete or turbo muffler!
13) Custom intake scoop – Now if none of these mods have been washed even so I recommend picking up a Blackness Widow or ane of the other major SCS manufacturers' intakes, not only volition they profoundly better throttle response but they'll likewise add anywhere from xxx-50 horsepower. But what if you lot've already maxed out everything else? Well if you're still serious nearly breaking into the 7-2nd zone and so it'southward time to take your ride straight to a body store for some fiberglass work. I don't intendance what anyone says but once yous've made this upgrade you might as well have your truck direct-piped considering at that place isn't much point in trying to be stealthy anymore!
14) Custom turbo-back exhaust – Congratulations if you've finished all of the previous modifications, but trust me when I tell you that the best has all the same to come! The next mod which will yield great results is installing either an H&S or SCT tuner with Large Wig upgrades.
At present depending on what dyno numbers you're looking for It's also time to brand sure that your exhaust system is exactly what it needs to exist. This should include a full three″ turbo-back system, a DPF delete with resonator, and an AEM FIC piggyback which should yield some pretty crawly results!
15) Custom intake – The final modification you should expect at doing is installing a cold air intake such as the Takeda or AFE. This will provide your 6.0 with libation oxygen denser air for more ability and ameliorate throttle response; however, if this isn't plenty in that location'southward still 1 more pick! An aftermarket intercooler such as the Banks i23 volition not only give you lot bang-up cooling capabilities only can also greatly improve horsepower/torque figures by allowing your turbo to work less to reach its maximum potential.
And then in that location you have it, folks! It isn't piece of cake but with some conscientious planning and a little research, y'all can hands transform your Ford into a blisteringly quick diesel capable of reaching the 7-second mark! However, don't forget that fifty-fifty though doing all of these mods will yield bully results at that place are several other options bachelor that are no less important such as power adders, proper tuning, etc.
Ford 6.0 Bulletproof Upgrades
This commodity is for those who own or plan to own a 1999-2003 Ford Powerstroke. This isn't an extensive article of every upgrade that can be done to the vi.0, only some upgrades that have been proven themselves through time and difficult miles on many unlike vehicles.
This listing volition non include intake manifolds considering at that place are too many options out there to say what yous should get with. If I listed them they would probably be outdated past the time this is published and so do your research and cull ane that best suits your needs.
In that location are 2 means you lot tin can exercise EGR delete:
1)Yous can drill a .25″ hole in the side of the exhaust manifold and install a plug (as per Bulletproof Diesel).
2)You can purchase a DP-51 kit from Impenetrable Diesel. The kit comes with a blanking piece that is installed in the EGR tube and a plug for the exhaust manifold to seal it off. This option volition protect yous from having to drill an extra pigsty in your frazzle manifold only will price more just drilling a small hole in there yourself.
If you plan to add modifications such as tuners, intakes, injectors, etc… y'all will need to become a catted H pipe at a minimum considering the manufactory Catback does not flow well enough for all of that added backpressure if everything else is stock. With tune + intake + full exhaust in that location'due south nigh 12psi of backpressure from these items.
You'll need new fuel lines eventually, just the manufacturing plant ones are fine for about 10psi of boost. After that, they can commencement leaking so it's best to upgrade them sooner than afterwards.
If you have a leaky valve embrace gasket, this is i of the cheapest and easiest upgrades you can practise right now. Some people will argue that if your truck isn't modded then there's no reason to change it out, those people don't know how fast an open EGR cooler will bleed down your batteries and get out you stranded on the side of the road because your truck won't commencement! I've seen it happen with my own eyes….twice actually (not including myself). If y'all want to save yourself some time and money, change your valve comprehend gasket.
If you're still stock injectors then I would recommend getting the chip tuned now if y'all haven't done so already. On most tunes, they allow for higher fuel pressure which will help with your turbo-diesel engine. If yous determine to buy used aftermarket injectors make sure that they are "cetane matched" or else they may not work properly in your truck. These tend to be more than expensive but well worth it in my opinion so whatever route you choose is up to you lot! There'southward nothing worse than spending $1500 on new injectors but to detect out they don't work right because the visitor didn't cetane match them for your application.
There are two schools of idea on this, you can either delete the EBPV and become with a iii″ straight pipage or convert it to a full 4″ exhaust organisation. Both take their pros and cons only if you ask me, I say delete it while your stock manifolds are still in place because while some people have had great luck keeping the stock manifolds, I had horrible luck with mine cracking on my driver'southward side within nigh 2 weeks of having my truck back from ford after the recall.
If you're going to add injectors then you might as well get yourself some new fuel lines too while you lot're at information technology since your old ones are probably starting to show their age now. The stock supply line is 20i max working pressure then no need to become with anything more than than that if you're still stuck.
Driving around town and short trips are fine only if you plan on doing any towing then it'southward best to upgrade your transmission libation while you're at it or else you might end up stranded on the side of the road again.
On some tracks, the FICM is mounted in a really awkward spot, plus it has no cover so every fourth dimension I drove through a puddle I would go water all over information technology which was pretty annoying. Now that mine is mounted under my airbox behind my MAF sensor there isn't much take a chance of h2o getting on it anymore! Plus now instead of having 4 wires going into one bolt, everything is nice and organized with 8 bolts holding it in place.
The manufactory fuel filter screen is very restrictive, not only will it restrict your fuel organization past nearly v-8 psi just you'll also find that dirt and other particles will easily laissez passer through it and clog up the screen which requires a pretty pricey replacement part from ford.
A shame too since they make them out of plastic! Exercise yourself a favor and buy a metal aftermarket one instead, I've been running one of these on my truck for almost two years now without any bug or restrictions whatsoever! If you lot're going to be adding injectors then do yourself a favor and become this equally well considering if anything gets stuck in your new injectors there's no manner yous're going to be able to articulate the filter on them yourself.
You can get away with keeping your factory rear diff for a while, just somewhen, you'll want to upgrade to some blazon of aftermarket cooler if you lot programme on doing whatsoever off-roading. This is the cheapest mode to do it besides since they ordinarily run about $100-150 compared to the more than expensive options out there.
If you're going the road of aftermarket injectors then swapping your fuel filter is simply as of import because these are hand-built by Roush instead of beingness mass-produced by ford so they have tighter tolerances which tin can sometimes cause leaks. A new filter volition provide a better seal between the fitting and ensure that everything stays where it belongs!
Stock DSM limits boost pressure to around 30 psi (on a skilful solar day) but are very weak once you become up around 40 psi even with an upgraded turbo. This is why virtually people opt for the DIY in-line heave valve upgrade in order to enhance their boost levels safely in order to forestall harm to their turbo or engine in general.
There are iii different options when it comes to frazzle upgrades, get with the cheapest one which is only deleting your factory donut gasket and replacing it with some high-quality cutting/weld 3″ tips or become all out and spend $1500+ on the back! Your choice but I know that I went ahead and did both so mine has awesome audio quality with awesome power delivery at the same time, plus everyone ever comments on how crawly they audio so information technology's a win-win for me!
Granted I've only been running mine for about 3 months and didn't practise the DSM delete when I originally did my exhaust but still, y'all go the idea that it helps quite a scrap with airflow. Plus some other plus side to doing this is if you're going the catless route then this volition help keep everything under control since information technology won't exist releasing any exhaust particles into your turbocharger.
Every DSM sucks in hot air from underneath their car, whenever yous stop at a light or whatever your engine bay is going to heat soak which also heats up your oil causing premature wear over time. If you want to add together some extra power gains every bit well as prevent heat soak so take a trip down to your local pick-n-pull and snatch yourself an OEM engine cover, they're normally in pretty bad shape with lots of flooring scratches on them just who cares when information technology'll be covering upwards all that ugly junk underneath the hood!
Originally I didn't desire to do this considering I was afraid that it would affect my MPG or cause whatever bug with shifting but I already had the part laying effectually so what the heck. The air conditioning delete is very easy to do since you don't fifty-fifty demand any tools (except a drill) and will only take virtually 5 minutes to consummate. All you have to do is remove the air workout accumulator box which releases all the pressure within of it, then find i of the white wires running into the box and simply cut it.
If you don't feel like splicing anything on your own then there are likewise companies out there than can do this for you, or if you desire to exist 100% safety with no take chances of leaking then take your car over to A1 Autosports in Tustin since they're the ones that taught me how to complete this mod properly. On a side annotation, I did get an A/C delete code after doing this only resetting my ECU fixed the trouble within minutes so no impairment done!
Again not required by whatsoever means merely if you lot plan on pushing your vehicle past factory limitations (which I'm sure well-nigh of u.s. will) then it's highly advised you upgrade your clutch as well! Even with the DSM delete, upgraded turbo, and exhaust I even so managed to destroy my stock clutch within 50 miles of driving. Changing your clutch is another DIY project that you can consummate by yourself if y'all're the kind of person who likes to tinker with their motorcar but I personally took mine down to Vastooki since they were able to practise information technology in under an hour without whatever issues!
This article was inspired by so many others out there who only talk about ability gains rather than maintenance or precautions needed when modifying your vehicle. Sure adding more than horsepower is incredibly fun but taking precautions so things don't go wrong will not only save y'all coin but also time, which is simply as valuable if not even more so! If you enjoyed this article and so please feel gratuitous to share it with your friends and other DSM owners out there.
That was quite a long article only I hope that everyone learned something new from reading this! If you have any questions or would like to contact me about the products I wrote well-nigh in this commodity and so delight email me at defdeletekits@gmail.com.
What Does Information technology Mean to Impenetrable A Diesel fuel Engine?
A bulletproof diesel engine is nothing more a tuned-up diesel engine. I will get into the details of what that means beneath, merely to get right to information technology…
You tin not get a stock or even lightly modded diesel fuel car to become faster without changing the following parts:
-the turbocharger (better boost, more power)
-the injection organization (more fuel in = more power)
-The Head (cake) – caput studs for improve cylinder compression, and college performance gaskets for less cylinder leakage "'*added annotation*"' If yous are willing to chance running depression octane gas (87/89 octane) y'all tin make the stock head work better, but it will require some trial and error. If you want to proceed your 87/89 octane gas, you demand a head gasket upgrade.
Tuning – this tin be done either through Actron or Unichip offroad programmers with a custom tune (large differences in power)
-Exhaust downpipe (more airflow = more ability)
Diesel is nearly efficient at function throttle, where they can supply all of their own air with no help from the turbocharger boost. Stock diesel likewise has very large backpressures at office throttle which inhibits airflow for that reason well as others. The bigger the downpipe, the less backpressure at that place is. Bigger downpipes will also brand your motorcar smoke more until yous get everything re-adjusted to compensate for the lower backpressure (EGT sensors, various other sensors).
It should exist noted that parts like injectors and turbochargers do not increment ability; rather they allow you lot to safely utilize that power without damaging anything in the procedure. This cannot be said virtually frazzle upgrades…
One other affair people like to install on their cars are chips… these are what give your automobile all of its ability gains past changing how information technology runs; this can range from simple adjustments like recurving the boost to giving it a far greater corporeality of overall power. Chips are wonderful things but beware! Many chips tin can not handle the increased power of bigger turbos or more than complete builds.
For example, some chips are but rated for 300hp merely you have a 400hp engine with a turbo that spools faster than an F1 racer… these fries will give you all kinds of false readings and will crusade problems if they try to read the engine correctly. This is why nigh serious tuners get custom…
These upgrades are done in stages – exercise one stage at a time, brand sure it works before y'all motility onto the side by side phase. Practise non expect big gains without investing some coin into your automobile since about parts are expensive – even inexpensive ones…
There are also several other parts which I am well-nigh to discuss which you can exercise with your car – some of these parts will be cheap, merely it is suggested that you relieve up a bit earlier tackling these as they may crave more work or money to complete…
I of the first things people like to upgrade on their cars is the turbocharger – this allows for more ability without any other changes. Only put, if you want more than power from your car, yous demand a bigger turbocharger and intercooler, etc…
There are many companies that offer better turbos than stock and usually offering them in stages:
Stage 1 – This is simply a replacement turbocharger that offers no additional features over stock (except more ability) – These usually bolt right upwards to your existing setup and offer more power, but they will also boost upwardly to higher heave pressures than stock so be careful – they tin can destroy your engine merely equally easily as they tin can make it go faster. If y'all are serious about modifying your car I would suggest getting 1 of these.
Stage 2 – These turbos come with their own oiling systems and usually bolt right up to nearly cars with very little modification. The biggest effect with stage 2's is that there is no real upgrade path for them – if y'all want bigger upgrades you need a new turbo…
-Intercooler (more than airflow through intercooler = more power)
Now some people will say that the first thing they exercise when modding their car is getting an intercooler… this is a fairly expensive upgrade for first-time modders equally information technology requires a lot of work to install properly and some special tools which you lot may not have. Information technology also makes more than noise than the turbocharger itself! Unfortunately, the amount of power increased from an intercooler will be far less than that of getting a bigger turbo – if you lot are looking for direct-up power gains, go the turbo first.
And so now let'southward presume that you but got your stage 2 or 3 turbos installed with good custom tuning (many tuners offer great tunes at reasonable prices)… well, what do you do adjacent?
Well, if your car is very powerful already so the best matter to do would exist to get everything else in your engine checked out;
O2 sensors (pre and post-turbo) – These control the amount of air that is let into your engine through a serial of readings, y'all can add or remove fuel to get the desired effect. If these are broken then it volition throw off all of your tunes and offset destroying things – exist certain to supersede them when you install new parts on your automobile.
Oil pump – These are adequately inexpensive upgrades merely they have been known to cause serious problems if they aren't matched correctly with upgraded internals… and so merely become ane after you lot take done some adept inquiry into what works well with what.
-Clutch – this volition increment the power which yous put towards moving – past getting a new clutch and having it installed properly you volition exist able to increment the power of your engine by effectually 15-xx% – It is fairly cheap and easy to install if you know what you lot are doing.
All of these parts should exist done in stages – don't exit and get just one, get them all at once afterwards yous take tested each individual mod… unless your car breaks down early!
So, chances are that y'all already have a nice melody on your car… well now it's fourth dimension for bigger injectors (which can make a huge difference) big intercooler, bigger turbocharger! Now does this mean that everyone should go phase 4? Well, I would say no because non everyone has the money to spend on stage 4 or high-powered turbochargers… just when yous get there, come up dorsum and read this article again!
Conclusion
Bulletproofing a diesel fuel engine is the process of strengthening and protecting an existing diesel fuel engine from wearable. This can be done by adding metallic to go far more durable or through other ways, such every bit using special coatings that prevent rust. The principal reason for this blazon of maintenance is to extend the life span of your vehicle's expensive investment in a new diesel engine. Bulletproofing your Diesel Engine should only be performed by professionals because there are many risks involved with working on engines. It'southward important non to underestimate these risks then you don't crusade any permanent harm while trying to save coin!
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